Timber is now a rare commodity in the market from the continuous ban on tree cutting and the global climate change effect. Unlike in the past where people could fell trees from the forests and their farms, it is now impossible to cut them down whenever you like. Timber prices have shot up a tradition that is not going to change soon. As such, carpenters are looking for other alternatives while utilizing every bit of timber that is available in their workshops. Below is an insight into the making and processing of stabilized wood.
Stabilization of timber involves taking soft pieces and injecting them with resin to form a hardened and stable blank that will be safe for turning. The use of resin is to displace the air pockets on the timber grain structure hence creating blanks that are invulnerable to moisture change and can absorb high gloss polishes.
People who have never worked with stabilized pieces may find it cumbersome to undertake the procedure. The initial step is assembling the pieces and drying them. For resins to get through to the innermost part of timber, it must be dry and with no moisture. As such, putting your pieces in a rack where hot sun rays will heat them for a few days will significantly lower their moisture content.
Once all the blanks are dry as required, you can now start stabilizing them. The procedure needs a correct kit which includes stainless steel pots, anti-float plates, a vacuum generator and an inner chamber. All the blanks should place in an inner chamber that will be filled with adequate resin and later submerged together for some time. Use of this apparatus will leave your timber in a natural state after strengthening it for different carpentry needs.
For a complete stabilization and resin penetration, you should leave them to boil for not less than 30 minutes. After these minutes, you can carefully open the pot while wearing protective gears to prevent burns from the high moisture. A good indicator that blanks have been soaked completely will be their non-presence at the top of your mixture. The process can be repeated if you find them flowing on top. Cleaning the pots is a must to avoid gumming of the materials on its sides.
The soaking process does not mean that the blanks are ready for use. They must be cured to ensure that they do not have some loopholes. Curing is done on ovens or toasters which can disseminate temperatures of about 200 degrees. Dry them on this apparatus for some minutes until no moisture can be traced. For a safe cure, you ought to wrap each blank when drying it at the oven.
Is this the only way that a blank can be stabilized? No. Some traditional methods are available although they are tedious and might be time consuming for people who are new to it. Cheap commercial chemicals like wood hardeners are accessible from shops whereby they can be painted into pieces. However, their quality is low when compared to the above process.
Carpenters need woods that are stabilized for their day to day activities which makes it essential to learn these tricks. Purchasing the prepared blanks might cost you handsomely whereas making them is simple. By doing the process at your workplace, you will save costs and make high-quality items.
Stabilization of timber involves taking soft pieces and injecting them with resin to form a hardened and stable blank that will be safe for turning. The use of resin is to displace the air pockets on the timber grain structure hence creating blanks that are invulnerable to moisture change and can absorb high gloss polishes.
People who have never worked with stabilized pieces may find it cumbersome to undertake the procedure. The initial step is assembling the pieces and drying them. For resins to get through to the innermost part of timber, it must be dry and with no moisture. As such, putting your pieces in a rack where hot sun rays will heat them for a few days will significantly lower their moisture content.
Once all the blanks are dry as required, you can now start stabilizing them. The procedure needs a correct kit which includes stainless steel pots, anti-float plates, a vacuum generator and an inner chamber. All the blanks should place in an inner chamber that will be filled with adequate resin and later submerged together for some time. Use of this apparatus will leave your timber in a natural state after strengthening it for different carpentry needs.
For a complete stabilization and resin penetration, you should leave them to boil for not less than 30 minutes. After these minutes, you can carefully open the pot while wearing protective gears to prevent burns from the high moisture. A good indicator that blanks have been soaked completely will be their non-presence at the top of your mixture. The process can be repeated if you find them flowing on top. Cleaning the pots is a must to avoid gumming of the materials on its sides.
The soaking process does not mean that the blanks are ready for use. They must be cured to ensure that they do not have some loopholes. Curing is done on ovens or toasters which can disseminate temperatures of about 200 degrees. Dry them on this apparatus for some minutes until no moisture can be traced. For a safe cure, you ought to wrap each blank when drying it at the oven.
Is this the only way that a blank can be stabilized? No. Some traditional methods are available although they are tedious and might be time consuming for people who are new to it. Cheap commercial chemicals like wood hardeners are accessible from shops whereby they can be painted into pieces. However, their quality is low when compared to the above process.
Carpenters need woods that are stabilized for their day to day activities which makes it essential to learn these tricks. Purchasing the prepared blanks might cost you handsomely whereas making them is simple. By doing the process at your workplace, you will save costs and make high-quality items.
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Shop and impressive selection of stabilized wood by visiting our web pages now. To check out our online catalog and learn more about our prices and products, click the links at http://www.stores.sheltonpacific.com .
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